Paddling the Emerald Triangle

Kayaking the Eel River in Northern California

Whitewater kayak self-support kayak trip on the emerald green waters of the Eel River.

I first ran the Eel River in 2009.  10 years later, I am still entranced by its magic and feel privileged to have it as my backyard run.  Of course, I wish the flow was more consistent and predictable.  But the uncertainty is what keeps the crowds away and keeps things interesting.  The Eel River has different options for day trips and multi-day trips and both flat and whitewater.  My favorite are the wilderness stretches of the Eel and when we have the luxury of a self-support kayak camping trip.

Kayak Camping on the Eel River.

Dos Rios to Alderpoint is a sweet 46 mile Class III whitewater stretch.  We have enjoyed several high water, whitewater kayak trips from Dos Rios to Alderpoint.  Usually this is just after a significant rainfall and the water is fast and loaded with sediment (The Eel River Watershed has the highest erosion rate in the United States).

Whitewater kayaking down the silt laden Eel River at high water.

Last spring the stars aligned for Jeff and I to paddle the Eel River at lower water and experience its emerald green waters.  Our journey took us down 70 miles of the Eel River from Dos Rios to Dyerville.  This stretch of the Eel River runs through Mendocino, Trinity, and Humboldt Counties.  The tri-county region is often referred to as the Emerald Triangle for a variety of reasons.  Naming our trip - Paddling the Emerald Triangle was inspired by the beautiful emerald green color of the water as we paddled through the tri-county area.

Late spring run on the emerald green waters of the Eel River.

The 46 miles from Dos Rios to Alderpoint is the Eel's traditional multi-day whitewater run.  At high flow, things are fast and furious.  At low flow things are a bit more relaxed.  At high water (10,000 cfs and higher) the river moves fast.  The rapids have big waves and powerful hydraulics that most would say puts it above its usual Class III rating.

Paddling pal Jerry Albright with a clean high water line through Kekawaka Falls.

At lower water 2,000-4,500 cfs, there are a few Class III pool drop rapids interspersed with Class II and flat stretches.

Playing my way down a pool drop class II rapid on the Eel River below Dos Rios.

The remarkable thing about running the Eel at a lower flow is getting to see many of the fascinating rock formations that are under water on higher water runs.  The rocks of the Eel River are quite varied and interesting.  At lower water, you get to see more of them.

This red capped rocks is one of my favorite rocks on the Eel River.  At high flows creates a scary recirculating eddy into a cave.

One surprise was the huge boulder field on the river right bank of Island Mountain below Island Mountain Falls.

Boulder bank on river right at Island Mountain that you only see at low water.

I also find fascinating all the remnants of the now defunct Eel River Railroad.  At low water, we got to see the infamous car in the river that creates a rapid.

Rail car in the middle of the Eel River.

Since our last trip, the Great Redwood Trail Act was passed.  The state is still working out the logistics but the plan is to create a rails to trails that would go from Marin to Eureka.  Much of this would go through the Eel River Canyon.

Eel River Railroad bridge to Island Mountain.

This is an exciting and awesome project but literally has many obstacles to overcome before hikers and bikers can enjoy a trail through the Eel River Canyon.  Dreams do come true and we are crossing our fingers for this one.

Landslides have made much of the rail line along the Eel River impassable.

The 30 miles from Alderpoint to Dyerville is essentially Class I.  This is where a bit faster current might be nice.  There are some spectacular waterfalls along this stretch as well as a flat water gorge that is the definition of tranquility.  

Waterfalls enhance the scenery of the Eel River Canyon.

One of my favorite parts of this section is going for a hike in the Avenue of the Giants.  These are some of the largest redwood trees in the world.

Hiking through Avenue of the Giants during our Eel River Trip.

After a hike, we are just around the corner from our take-out on the gravel bar at Dyerville.  This is the confluence of the South and Main Forks of the Eel and in the heart of Avenue of the Giants.  Last year we were a bit overwhelmed with hordes of cars and people on the gravel bank.  They were there for the Avenue of the Giants Marathon.  It was quite a shock to go from just the 2 of us for 7 days on the river to seeing hundreds of people.

Cars for Avenue of the Giants Marathon parked at the Dyerville Confluence.

Fortunately the marathoners and fans cleared out by early afternoon as our friends were stopping by to pick us up.  It is always nice to celebrate the conclusion of a great trip with a cold beer.  Our friends styled us with Eel River Brewing Company's Emerald Triangle Pale Ale.

Enjoying fermented Eel River water at the take-out - Eel River Brewing Company 's Emerald Triangle Pale Ale.